How the Italian injected Britain back into our most popular heritage fashion house

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Appropriate, upright British sartorialism spilled over into sharp tailoring and duffle coats for men, as well as elegant skirt dresses and double sets with crystal powder for women and acres of tartan that wouldn’t be out of place at Balmoral. Like Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, cited by Tisci regarding how he approaches his work at Burberry, the designer exhibits and rearranges the house’s signatures; coat and diamond.

The first was manipulated into a suit; a sculptural affair on the red carpet in the famous camel gabardine, double-breasted buttons that drop down the front, and also depicted as a pleated silk dress. Tisci has serious fashion qualities, having previously run Givenchy, and as the world stepped out of Covid, he expanded the house’s evening wear offering into serious event attire; glittering metal capes, embroidery on skirts and knitted sweaters and this confection made of sunny yellow feathers.

“I always think of Thomas Burberry,” he told Tisci of the founder of the house, who in 1856 founded a humble outdoor clothing maker. “We are one of the oldest luxury houses in the world and you have to respect what he built. But my job is to research, change, adapt, ”he said. This evolution of the classic codes of this senior statesman of British luxury was highlighted this week with the news of a partnership with the cult streetwear brand Supreme, which has created queues around the block.

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